‘Every Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.

‘Every Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.

An Unexpected Recognition

A Character of Simplicity

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Surpassing the Giants

A Ethos of Warmth

A Path of Dedication

An Achievement for the Community

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